The Spanish Travelogue chronicles my journey through the explored and unexplored regions of the Spanish mainland (and the unexplored corners of the explored regions).
To get away from the tourist hot spots in Spain like Barcelona, Madrid or Ibiza, or to catch a glimpse of the countryside, travel to the relatively unexplored Basque region. Resplendent in pristine beaches bordered by the Basque mountains, the region offers a quiet getaway.
The major city in the Basque country is San Sebastian, or Donostia, as the locals prefer to call it. Though it’s a major city by the region’s standards, Donostia’s map is very simple and the place can in fact be explored on foot in a couple of hours (except for the trek, which I shall come to). At the end of those couple of hours, you may finally decide to park yourself here for a glass of Sangria.
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| Sunset from La Concha Beach, Donostia |
Notice the small figure on top of the hill on the right? We shall reach there in due time, and I shall then reveal His importance. But for now, since the sun is setting and it’s dinner time, we shall move to Calle del Treinta y Uno de Augusto (or translated, the 31st of August Street).
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| Calle del Treinta y Uno de Augusto |
With cafes lined across this street (and if you’re lucky, musicians playing on these steps), this is the go-to place in Donostia for food. The Basque traditions are markedly different from those of the Spanish mainland. This is obviously reflected in the food too, and the tapas here are called ‘pintxos’ (pronounced: “pinchyos”). You would particularly relish them if you have a liking for raw or smoked food (I sadly don’t). Apart from pintxos, Donostia also offers a wide range of other options in food as well, so never mind if you don’t find smoked fish palatable.
Let us start our next day with a trek to the most famous point at San Sebastian – the top of Mount Urgull. The hill became a defence point for the city from the time it was founded in the 12th century AD, and who best to guard the coastal city below from the fortress than Him?
Yes, that’s the distant sculpture you saw from La Concha beach, and would in fact see from any point in Donostia. While you can take a guided tour of the fortress that was pursued by even Napoleon Bonaparte for years before he seized it, you can look down from the fort for some of the most incredible views.
After your descend from Mount Urgull, take a stroll around Casco Viejo, the old town, abounding in quaint old churches, cobbled streets and souvenir shops. The 31st of August Street is in this area, so good food isn’t far away! For shopaholics, Parte Vieja is the commercial part, adjacent to the old town, and offers plenty of shopping options.
Carry on from this part of the city and across La Concha to the other side of the town, to reach Mount Igueldo. This walk would be around half an hour (and you may decide to take a cab), but it’s perhaps worth it to reach this place, because you get to see this view from the top of the hill:
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| La Concha and the Basque hills from Mount Igueldo |
Oh and I forgot to mention! You don’t have to trek your way up here. The mode of transportation used to go up and down the hill is the ‘funicular’.
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| The mode of transport at Mount Igueldo is the Funicular. Don't worry, this train will not collide with the one you see in the distance. |
After you are done sight-seeing, you may decide to take a walk along the river (which isn’t far away from La Concha), roam around the old town or just sit down with a beer on the beach to watch the sunset. Donostia is one of those quiet cities which teach you to just breathe.
Take a day trip to the town of Bilbao, the northernmost part on the coastline. I cannot vouch for the main attraction, Museo Guggenheim, which is essentially a museum about the technological progress of the Basque region. I would rather recommend you carry on to the old town, which again is called Casco Viejo, like it was in Donostia. You may wish to pay a visit to the lesser explored Esukal Musea here, which takes you through Basque traditions, history and crafts. You could also visit the church here, which is the Basilica de Begona. There are some lovely views of the hills from this place, being situated at the top of the old town.
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| Bilbao is essentially centered around Casco Viejo. You may visit the Esukal Musea and the Basilica de Begona here. |
Bilbao is the place for pristine beaches. Take the metro from Casco Viejo and reach Plentzia, the terminal station. Hope off, and walk towards the beach.
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| You get to see colorful sights like these boats lined up on your way to the beach |
Walk on for fifteen minutes, till you reach here.
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| Beaches in Bilbao are small. But wrapped inside the Basque hills, they serve as the most tranquil destinations. |
You may also decide to stay in the countryside, though transportation may be a bit of an issue. But for the sheer scenery the Basque region has to offer, it isn’t too bad a gamble either!
So if you are planning on a holiday to Spain, do try and include a visit to Basque, for a completely different side of Spain, or simply to take a break from touristy things.
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Post Script
If you are visiting Donostia during the summer months, you may consider carrying a windcheater. The erratic European rains do not exclude Basque, and so often, when it’s bright and sunny here one day, chances are that the rains would spoil the next. The obviously applicable cliché therefore is? Make hay while sun shines!
