The Spanish Travelogue 3: Granada

The Spanish Travelogue chronicles my journey through the explored and unexplored regions of the Spanish mainland (and the unexplored corners of the explored regions).

If you are fond of cobbled streets, acoustic music, sunny weather and fusion food, Granada would probably become your favourite Spanish city. The confluence of Arabic and Spanish cultures, Granada is located in the province of Andalucia, at the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The Mediterranean has an influence on both the climate and cuisine of Granada. 

Exploring Granada invariably requires you to know a bit of history (don’t worry - I will keep this bit to a minimum). That is because the main tourist attraction in Granada, drawing thousands of tourists from all over the world, is the Alhambra palace, the blend of Muslim and Christian histories and architecture.

The Umayyad conquest of Hispania in the 8^th century A.D. established the Moorish control over the region which broadly comprises the present province of Andalucia. And therefore, it is not surprising that the epistemological origins of the word Granada find root in the Arabic Ġarnāṭah, which I was told loosely means ‘Hill of Strangers’. Now that’s a convenient name the Arabs used to explain their evident feelings about a completely different culture they witnessed when they established their rule here in the 8^th century.

In the 13^th century A.D., the Muslim Nasrid dynasty ruling over Granada prospered despite the Christian Reconquista by Ferdinand III of Castile. The region of Sevilla had already been taken over by the Christian king by this time, and Granada remained the central refuge of the Arabs in the Al-Andalus province. It took more than two centuries thereafter for the Christian kings to take over the complete control of Granada, thus marking the end of the Reconquista.

The Moors (loosely meaning, Muslims of Arabic descent) staying on in Granada were eventually forced to convert to Christianity, and over the years they came to become a separate ethnic group called the Moriscos.

The Alhambra palace, with a towering view of the entire city, evidences various periods of the history of Granada. The castle of Alhambra dates back to the 12^th century A.D., and consists of several zones, eminently, the Alcazaba (for purposes of defence), the Nasrid palaces and El Generalife. While most of the Moorish and Morisco architecture has been preserved, there have evidently been later Christian architectural interpolations. Views of the city from various quarters of the palace are beautiful, and if you are into both history and photography, then you ought to visit the palace with a lot of time on your hands. The Court of Lions and the fountain, and the Hall of the Ambassadors are prime attractions. 

The Alhambra offers a towering view of the city, with the Sierra Nevada Mountains in the distance

The Court of Lions at the Alhambra

El Generalife, adjacent to the palace, was the garden of the Nasrid kings

El Patio de la Acequia, or the Water Channel Courtyard, is an example of a medieval Persian garden

A special mention needs to be made here of the Hall of the Abencerrajes, with the roof bearing the honeycomb design, as can be seen in Gaudí’s works in Barcelona. Folklore has it that the last Sultan of Granada invited the chiefs of the line of Abencerrajes and massacred them in this hall. Palaces do have small histories hidden in their nooks and corners! I must say that I found the Generalife, or the palace gardens, a bit overhyped. I did not tour the palace at night, but it is said that the nightlife from the Alhambra is worth a visit. You could visit the Granada cathedral and the Royal Chapel which were superimposed over the Great Mosque of Granada, as it existed then.

The honeycomb design in the Hall of the Abencerrajes at Alhambra 

The Christian structures are a superimposition on the Muslim ones

A quick tip here: Book the tickets for Alhambra well in advance. The palace authorities have to invariably be a little inflexible about time, due to the heavy influx of tourists. It is therefore advisable to reach the entrance well on time to avoid hassles.

Moving on from the Alhambra, visit the Albayzín area of Granada. On the right bank of the river Darro, the Albayzín is the ancient Moorish quarter of the Granada. Having the best views of the Alhambra, the Albayzín has cobbled streets opening on to the main street, lined with cafeterias. Albayzín is also the popular shopping district of Granada, so make sure you bargain very well and do a lot of window shopping in order to get the best deals. This I write from impression and not from experience, since I spent most of my time around this region in the pursuit of food.

The Albayzín area has cobbled streets opening on to the main street, lined with cafeterias with the Alhambra towering above

If you have been roaming around other places in Spain and are tired (alright, blasphemously tired) of Spanish food, Granada offers you relief-restaurants, with an abundance of options in Arabian and Mediterranean cuisine. The beef couscous with caramelized onions is a personal recommendation. A lot of restaurants offer fusion food which is worth exploring.

Granada is a place you explore by just walking around. Your walk may take you to El Realejo, or the Jewish quarters. The cobbled alleys, the quiet walk by the river at night with the imposing Alhambra palace as the background, the musicians at every corner with their guitars, cajons and accordions, all add to the charm of the city. On one particular evening when a football match was on, it seemed like the entire city had poured out into the streets to watch the game from the cafés, and the enthusiasm in the celebrations was contagious.

Post Script:

It was a lazy, sunny day and I was sitting drinking Raki in one of those numerous open air cafeterias in the Albayzín area which have the Alhambra overlooking them. From the band of musicians playing nearby, the accordion player suddenly came up to me, smiled and said, “Raj Kapoor?” 

The Spanish Travelogue 2: Barcelona - The Palette City

The Spanish Travelogue chronicles my journey through the explored and unexplored regions of the Spanish mainland (and the unexplored corners of the explored regions).

Do not visit Barcelona with an agenda or a list of things you have to see. In other words, visit Barcelona with an open mind, to absorb the undirected and the unplanned.

To my mind, the reason behind Barcelona’s immense popularity is that it has something for every kind of traveller, be it the historian, the photographer, the night-lifer, the shopper, or the foodie. Thus, though Barcelona abounds in touristy flavours, I cannot vouch for the particular attraction in Barcelona that will become your inevitable favourite. In fact, you too shouldn't pre-judge as to what it could be. 

Exploring Barcelona in a couple of days may be slightly hectic, and it helps if you are a little generous with your holiday time. And you do not have to know Catalan in order to survive in Barcelona, though knowing a bit of Spanish always helps. And carry a sweatshirt, even in summer.

Barcelona is best seen walking. But I care for your legs and so cannot advise you to walk the length of the second largest city in Spain for purposes of better exploration. The metro and the bus are easy means of commuting. Barcelona has zones - and it is easier if you divide the attractions accordingly to cover them. 

A.    La Rambla – Since we are on the topic of walking, we start with a walk around Barcelona’s most popular avenue. Lined by trees on either side of the walk, La Rambla is bustling with crowds and cafés. On one end of La Rambla is the Plaça de Catalunya, Barcelona’s busiest square, and on the other end of it is the port, which again has a lovely walk by its side. La Rambla therefore serves as a beautiful connector between the various zones in Barcelona.

Lined with trees on either side of the walk, La Rambla is a beautiful connector between the various zones in Barcelona

Walk across the length of La Rambla to reach the Port 

The walk by the Port side is a virtual extension of La Rambla

B.     Barri Gothic – To the east of La Rambla lies the Gothic quarter of the city. The Gothic quarter was the centre of the Roman settlement, and has narrow cobbled streets opening into squares, housing some of the oldest monuments of the city. You may decide to walk to Barri Gothic from La Rambla, or take the metro to get off at Jaume I, the mouth of the quarter. Despite the history of Barcelona being rewritten several times, many of the grandiose monuments from the past have been preserved. Expect to find guitarists and painters on your way around the Gothic quarter, looking for inspiration and adding to the charm. I was told that one such painter in the old days frequenting this part of the city was Pablo Picasso. There are several walking tours taking you around the Gothic Quarter, and it isn’t a bad idea to book one for knowing more about the history of the place. Continue your walk from the Barri Gothic and El Born areas to reach the Arc de Triomf in Barcelona, a less grandiose but livelier replica of the one in Paris.   

Despite the history of Barcelona being rewritten several times, Barri Gothic and El Born have preserved many of the old buildings and monuments from the past which you come across as you walk along the winding cobbled streets  

Do not overlook random scribblings on the walls such as these in the Barri Gothic area. This one is by Pablo Picasso

The Arc de Triomf in Barcelona 

C.    Sagrada Familia – Popularly known as this, the Church of the Holy Family has a bigger name in Spanish which isn’t necessary to know. Sagrada Familia is a magnificent building, essentially because of the unique Art Nouveau style adopted in its design by Antoni Gaudí. Gaudí attempted to recreate various aspects of nature through architectural symbolism in the façades and the interior of the church. At the cost of sounding slightly blasphemous, my purpose for visiting the Sagrada Familia was more for reasons of modern art than religion. The church still remains under construction, though the same was started over a hundred years ago. Of course, what was not taken into account while deciding the amount of time required for construction of the church is that there is an afternoon siesta time in Spain for everybody.

Though its construction began well over a hundred years ago, the Sagrada Familia still remains an incomplete magnificence

D.    Parc Güell – We move on to yet another one of Gaudí’s impressive creations. Located on Carmel Hill in the Gracia district of Barcelona, Parc Güell is a public park interspersed with structures designed by Gaudi to reflect aspects of geometrical forms found in nature. This intermingling of art, nature and geometry lends a distinctive characteristic to Parc Güell. Parc Güell also provides excellent views of the district, and the sea can be seen in the horizon. You may also decide to walk around Gracia, which is the quieter part of the city. The walks lined with trees provide a break from the hustle-bustle of La Rambla and its surroundings.

The intermingling of art, nature and geometry lends a distinctive characteristic to Parc Güell. The sea can be seen in the horizon

E.     Plaça de Catalunya and Eixample – Travel from Gracia through Passeig de Gracia to Plaça de Catalunya, and for more glimpses of the contemporary sides of Barcelona, to Eixample. Plaça de Catalunya is the centre of activity in Barcelona, and has a number of streets originating from it. The plaza is thriving with restaurants and cafés, shopping malls, and monuments showcasing modernist architecture. It is also the central point for commuting to different parts of Barcelona.

Plaça de Catalunya, Barcelona's busiest square, is the focal point of the city and has a number of streets originating from it

F.     Camp Nou stadium – The first hit on Google when you type ‘Barcelona’ will probably be about the football club. That is exactly how passionate Barcelona is about the game. And the football stadium is worth a visit. Detailing the history of the famous football club, a visit to Camp Nou is an enriching experience for the sheer beauty of it. If you are lucky enough, you might just catch a game. This visit is recommended even if you are not a football fan.

A visit to Camp Nou is worth it even if you are not a football fan

G.    Barceloneta – Not just in Spain, but anywhere, a city having so many attractions AND a beach is bound to be a tourist hotspot. The long stretch of the sand and the sea is close enough to the centre of the city, and the easiest mode of communication is the metro. There are bars and restaurants lined along the way and on the Barceloneta beach, and the nightclubs are situated along the coastline. You may decide your own way and time to enjoy yourself at the beach.

The long stretch of the Barceloneta beach is conveniently located from the centre of the city

Post Script

Mornings on a tranquil beach call for beer. The men providing the same in Barceloneta, I discovered, are mostly from Punjab. However, in Barceloneta, Punjab remains undivided and borders become porous on people finding lingual similarities. Realizing that I was from India, one of the beer sellers quickly got chatting. He spoke of his home, his family and his brothers here. The brothers who shared the business and the apartment. Addressing me as ‘Dharminder paaji’ and offering me a discount, Abdur Rahim Khan told me, “When we are here in Barceloneta selling beer, we are all brothers. It doesn’t matter if you are from India or Pakistan if you speak Punjabi. We are only enemies when we reach our respective motherlands.”

The Spanish Travelogue 1: Basking in the Basque

The Spanish Travelogue chronicles my journey through the explored and unexplored regions of the Spanish mainland (and the unexplored corners of the explored regions). 

To get away from the tourist hot spots in Spain like Barcelona, Madrid or Ibiza, or to catch a glimpse of the countryside, travel to the relatively unexplored Basque region. Resplendent in pristine beaches bordered by the Basque mountains, the region offers a quiet getaway.

The major city in the Basque country is San Sebastian, or Donostia, as the locals prefer to call it. Though it’s a major city by the region’s standards, Donostia’s map is very simple and the place can in fact be explored on foot in a couple of hours (except for the trek, which I shall come to). At the end of those couple of hours, you may finally decide to park yourself here for a glass of Sangria.

Sunset from La Concha Beach, Donostia

Notice the small figure on top of the hill on the right? We shall reach there in due time, and I shall then reveal His importance. But for now, since the sun is setting and it’s dinner time, we shall move to Calle del Treinta y Uno de Augusto (or translated, the 31st of August Street).

Calle del Treinta y Uno de Augusto

With cafes lined across this street (and if you’re lucky, musicians playing on these steps), this is the go-to place in Donostia for food. The Basque traditions are markedly different from those of the Spanish mainland. This is obviously reflected in the food too, and the tapas here are called ‘pintxos’ (pronounced: “pinchyos”). You would particularly relish them if you have a liking for raw or smoked food (I sadly don’t). Apart from pintxos, Donostia also offers a wide range of other options in food as well, so never mind if you don’t find smoked fish palatable.

Let us start our next day with a trek to the most famous point at San Sebastian – the top of Mount Urgull. The hill became a defence point for the city from the time it was founded in the 12th century AD, and who best to guard the coastal city below from the fortress than Him? 

Yes, that’s the distant sculpture you saw from La Concha beach, and would in fact see from any point in Donostia. While you can take a guided tour of the fortress that was pursued by even Napoleon Bonaparte for years before he seized it, you can look down from the fort for some of the most incredible views.

After your descend from Mount Urgull, take a stroll around Casco Viejo, the old town, abounding in quaint old churches, cobbled streets and souvenir shops. The 31st of August Street is in this area, so good food isn’t far away! For shopaholics, Parte Vieja is the commercial part, adjacent to the old town, and offers plenty of shopping options.

Carry on from this part of the city and across La Concha to the other side of the town, to reach Mount Igueldo. This walk would be around half an hour (and you may decide to take a cab), but it’s perhaps worth it to reach this place, because you get to see this view from the top of the hill:

La Concha and the Basque hills from Mount Igueldo

Oh and I forgot to mention! You don’t have to trek your way up here. The mode of transportation used to go up and down the hill is the ‘funicular’.

The mode of transport at Mount Igueldo is the Funicular. Don't worry, this train will not collide with the one you see in the distance.

After you are done sight-seeing, you may decide to take a walk along the river (which isn’t far away from La Concha), roam around the old town or just sit down with a beer on the beach to watch the sunset. Donostia is one of those quiet cities which teach you to just breathe. 

Take a day trip to the town of Bilbao, the northernmost part on the coastline. I cannot vouch for the main attraction, Museo Guggenheim, which is essentially a museum about the technological progress of the Basque region. I would rather recommend you carry on to the old town, which again is called Casco Viejo, like it was in Donostia. You may wish to pay a visit to the lesser explored Esukal Musea here, which takes you through Basque traditions, history and crafts. You could also visit the church here, which is the Basilica de Begona. There are some lovely views of the hills from this place, being situated at the top of the old town.

Bilbao is essentially centered around Casco Viejo. You may visit the Esukal Musea and the Basilica de Begona here.

Bilbao is the place for pristine beaches. Take the metro from Casco Viejo and reach Plentzia, the terminal station. Hope off, and walk towards the beach.

You get to see colorful sights like these boats lined up on your way to the beach

Walk on for fifteen minutes, till you reach here.

Beaches in Bilbao are small. But wrapped inside the Basque hills, they serve as the most tranquil destinations.

You may also decide to stay in the countryside, though transportation may be a bit of an issue. But for the sheer scenery the Basque region has to offer, it isn’t too bad a gamble either!

So if you are planning on a holiday to Spain, do try and include a visit to Basque, for a completely different side of Spain, or simply to take a break from touristy things.

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Post Script

If you are visiting Donostia during the summer months, you may consider carrying a windcheater. The erratic European rains do not exclude Basque, and so often, when it’s bright and sunny here one day, chances are that the rains would spoil the next. The obviously applicable cliché therefore is? Make hay while sun shines!

PARIS, AND ITS NOT-TO-MISS ATTRACTIONS

The seen and unseen, the touristy and non-touristy, the adrenalin and the heart

When we talk about Paris, there is one question I can never quite answer. And that is, how many days does it really take to extensively cover Paris? Because frankly, it is extremely difficult to extensively cover Paris. Not because Paris is a big city, but because it has so many contours, so many facets and so many stories rolled inside it. So it totally depends on what you are here for: history, architecture, nightlife, churches, romance, food, music, or a little touristy mishmash of all of it. So the first Paris tip is: set your priorities.

That said, let's move on. Before going into what I suggest are things you shouldn't miss, I guess it isn't a bad idea to take you through a general walk around Paris. Because that's how Paris is best seen - by foot.  Actually, that calls for another quick tip. WALK. As much as you can. Because:

a.   Most of the touristy places are situated at walkable distances from one another;

b.   Going by open air tourist buses is a disastrous idea, since Paris can be pretty congested and the buses move at little better than snail-speed;

c.   You obviously get to notice the city in better detail;

d.   Brisk walk is good for health, especially since you would need to digest all those pastries you will want to eat while you are on the Parisian streets!

Paris basks in splendour. Its regalia is strewn around the city, in the form of renaissance buildings, archways, theatre buildings, remnants from the Second World War, and so on. Fancy looking at these when you're  taking a walk (or a bus, if you're lazy despite my suggestions, or a taxi, if you are not just rich but also a tad stupid with your money):

The last two pictures are of a Church. Just saying. 

Alright, walking on.  Now here's a tentative list  of things you shouldn't miss. Your hits on google would disclose 372634 other places in Paris. Like I said in the beginning, it is oh so difficult to extensively cover Paris.

a.   Basilique du Sacré Coeur and Montmarte - Simplistically translated, the Church of the Sacred Heart and the Mountain of the Martyr, respectively. (Oh, and another quick tip: Learn a little French. Un peu. Helps. You know, directions and all.) Do them first, since they are comparatively farther off from the other touristy places. So better be done with it, yes?

The Church is quite beautiful from inside, but the best thing about this place is the view of the city.

Did you just mutter that you believed the best views are only from Eiffel? Ah, Paris myths. True, the Eiffel does give an amazing view of the city, but it's not the only point from which you get a beautiful panoramic view of Paris. (In fact, there's one more, which I shall come to later).

And while you enjoy the view, listen to a bit of harp. That old, mellifluous, forgotten instrument. Here:

Walk around Montmarte, and grab a coffee while watching artists at work. And if you're a quaint alleyway lover, you will love this part of the town.

b.   Notre Dame Cathedral -

Considered to be one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture, the construction of this cathedral dates back to the 12th century AD, making it one of the oldest churches in Europe. Despite subsequent vandalism, Notre Dame has been successfully preserved and its architectural brilliance continues to impress.

Even the interior of the Church is worth a visit, particularly for the grand organ on display inside.

Since the Notre-Dame is on the banks of the Seine, like most of the other important places, it isn't a bad idea to start your tourist explorations around this area with Notre-Dame.

c.   Hôtel de Ville- Or the city hall in Paris. A five minute walk from the Notre-Dame, this is the city administration building. Admire from outside, and move on.

I am sure you have been able to translate the above inscription.

d.   Centre Georges Pompidou - A short walk away from the above. The whole idea of this building was to project artistically what is inside the structure of a building.

Now depending on whether you get abstract art/architecture, you would like or dislike it. However, the building is pretty unconventional to look at, and it's fine if you don't wish to go in. Grab something from one of those amazing patisseries on the way, if you're a hog like me.  (Parisian patisseries and cafes are famous. Grab a quiche while on the trot, or sit for a bit for a quick glass of rouge.)

e.   A ride on a Seine - OK cheat time. Your legs need rest, agreed. And while you take that rest, hop on to a batobus. That’s what these things are called.

You cannot come to Paris and not take a ride on the Seine. Simply for the beauty, the serenity, the tranquility of it. Travel to one of the few stops, which is one or the other tourist spots. I would recommend: get off at Champs-Élysées (we will get to the pronunciation and the place in a while).

The ride is filled with these bridges you see. I remember incidentally listening to "Like a bridge over troubled water", when I was taking this particular ride. You get to see the Notre Dame, the Supreme Court (that's the lawyer in me talking, but hey, it's a beautiful building), the Musee de Orsay (to which I shall shortly come) and other buildings as you enjoy the ride. Look around. You'd be particularly lucky if the sun is setting, or if it has started to drizzle a bit.

Imagine getting off at your stop, and encountering something like this:

Paris is often, quite quietly romantic.

f.    Champs-Élysées and Arc de Triomphe - Get off the batobus and walk towards the Arc de Triomphe. Look down and you the see the boulevard of Champs-Élysées (pronounced roughly as, "shawnz-ay-lisay").

The Arc de Triomphe, or the Arch of Triumph, dates back to the early 19th century, when Napoleon Bonaparte commissioned it. It has since been the hallmark monument for parades and gatherings. You may wish to read up a littlle about the history bit before you visit for your interest, but that is PURELY OPTIONAL.

Once you are here, climb up! This monument offers one of the most breathtaking views of the city and the Eiffel Tower (I know I still haven't spoken about it).

Champs-Élysées from the top of the Arc. Believe me, you won't regret the number of steps you climb after you get to see the views. 

Once you have been to Arc de Triomphe, walk towards Champs-Élysées, or you may just take a little stroll around the place, and admire the architecture around you.

All the above places can be covered in a day (yes, with your food and wine time). If you do decide to follow this itinerary, it must be getting a little dark by the time you'd have finished your walk around Champs-Élysées, and now we shall proceed towards our next destination.

g.   The Eiffel Tower -

Reach the Eiffel Tower just a little before ten o'clock at night. That’s from when, every hour for five minutes, you get to catch glittering lights being turned on at the tower. And you should try not to miss that. Next, pay ten Euros and take the lift to the third floor. Oh and it is extremely normal for people to be speechless on seeing the view from the top floor. Take your time to admire.

h.   Moulin Rouge -Glorified extensively in pop culture, Moulin Rouge is synonymous with nightlife in Paris.

This photo was taken during the day because I didn't have the money to splurge on cabaret shows here. You can see the Moulin Rouge on your way to Montmarte. However, if you do wish to do 'something stupid', do pay a visit to Moulin Rouge at night. In which case, do write me an email with further details and photographs (skipping embarrassing moments, of course).

i.     The Louvre -

A walk away from the touristy places around Seine that I spoke of earlier, the Louvre Palace houses one of the biggest museums in the world.  Louvre is really a complex, and with an immense range of collections from across civilizations at different points in history, getting around the Louvre is taxing. So the tip is: Try to stick to your time allotted to see Louvre. You would end up crossing it.

Other Louvre tips:

1.   For a few Euros more, get an audio guide. It would help if you know the essential, not-to-miss collections, especially if you have a time constraint

2.   Get yourself a map. Locating where you are is important. Locating where you wish to be is even more important.

3.   Don't spend too much time staring in awe at everything. Worst idea ever if you wish to complete Louvre.

Once you are done with Louvre, you would be hungry. To regain some calories and breath, visit Le Café Diane, located in the heart of the Tuileries Gardens at Louvre.  Try rabbit meat here. Yum!

j.    Place de la Corcorde - Walk from the Tuileries gardens at the Louvre to the Place de la Corcorde, one of the main public squares in Paris (and Paris does seem to have quite a lot of them for revolutions, rendezvous and French leaves). 

The Obelisk of Luxor

For its historical association with the French Revolution, the architectural beauty of the Obelisk of Luxor, or Star Trek references, this square becomes a cannot-miss place in Paris.

k.   Musée d'Orsay - If you are an art lover, then you just cannot afford to miss the Musée d'Orsay. But  then again, if you are an art lover, I don't have to give you any introduction to this Museum, since you definitely would have heard of it.

Built over three floors, this museum houses some of the finest collections of impressionist and post-impressionist masterpieces, and has an exhaustive list of paintings by Monet, Manet, Van Gogh and Courbet, to name a few. My suggestion is, keep a fair amount of time reserved for Orsay. You definitely don't wish to miss out on masterpieces such as this:

l.     Bastille, Place des Vosges and the Victor Hugo museum - The reason why I am tagging these three places together is because of their proximity to each other, and relative distance from the other places. Take the metro to Bastille. (Advisable not to walk: it's a long walk, and the metro is quite a convenient mode of transport in Paris if you don't wish to walk).

Though the fortress of Bastille no longer exists, except for a few scattered remains of the ruins, the monument and the square are worth a visit.

At any point of the day, you are likely to see painters and poets sitting in cafes about the square of Place des Vosges. And if you are a Victor Hugo fan, pay a visit to his house here. Some original manuscripts from Les Misérables have been preserved, and so has the bedroom of its author. 

m. Jardin du Luxembourg - If you want to just take a breather from rushing from one monument to the other, or are tired of seeing so much architecture and history around Paris, go to the Luxembourg Garden. The Pantheon is close by, just in case you feel like going to one of those monumental buildings you were running away from.

n.   Café Les Deux Magots - While most cafés are recommended for the food, this one is an exception. In fact, this café might just unnecessarily burn a huge hole in your pocket, so don't venture in. But you might just want to visit the place that has had patrons like Ernest Hemingway, Jean-Paul Sartre, Albert Camus, Pablo Picasso and James Joyce, among others. And that’s the only reason why Les Deux Magots features in the 'to-visit' places.

o.   Père Lachaise Cemetery - Why visit a cemetery, you ask? For starters, it has the graves of Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Alfred Chopin and Jim Morrison, among other mortals. Take the metro to Père Lachaise rather than attempting to walk it.

Among places I've written about on this post, visit Père Lachaise last. So that it may seep in when you leave Paris that 'this is the end, beautiful friend'.

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Post Script

When you are in what is (arguably) voted the most romantic city in the world, you have to pay a visit to the Pont des Arts, or the bridge of locks, crossing over the Seine, where lovers attach padlocks with their names engraved, on the railings of the bridge and throw the key into the river. The idea is that this gesture locks the love between them forever. I have not gone into a statistical analysis of the successful cases, but in June 2014, part of the parapet of the bridge collapsed under the weight of so much love.